Summer Alpine Ice In the Canadian Rockies

"No one can view the Canadian Rockies for the first time without feeling the communal human awe all cultures hold for the mountains. Whether revered with fear as the abode of the gods or seen as trophies for personnel glory, mountains have held mankind's gaze and imaginations since time began. The Canadian Rockies are as archetypal as any mountain range in the world, and the beauty of its sharply silouhetted summits framed by a spectacular sunset provides adequate vision of why we are spurred to climb. Every Canadian or visiting climber should at some time make their pilgrimage to this range and allow themselves the experience of climbing in our mountaineering heartland."
Gripped Magazine.

How's that for inspiring words?
Listed below are some inspiring alpine ice routes.

• Contact us for a detailed itinerary and gear list, as well as to determine which climb is suitable for your abilities.

Mt. Fay 3234m. North Face III 40-70 degree snow ice
1 day $900(1:1) 1,100(2:1)
High above Moraine Lake (near Lake Louise), there are three broad ice lines of up to 400m on Mt. Fay. We can choose from 40 to 70 degree ice to climb to the summit on. We cover varied terrain in the spectacular Valley of Ten Peaks of the Rockies. One long day from the car, or the option a multiday trip staying at the highest alpine hut in the Rockies and combining other ice ascents with this one. This is a great area for gaining experience on moderate alpine routes.

Mt. Athabasca 3491m. North Face III 5.4 50 degree Ice/Snow
2 days $1,800(1:1) 2,200(2:1)
The ice shrouded North Face is another great moderate outing, a perfect introduction to alpine ice climbing. Day one; approach the North Glacier to set up a high camp at the glacial toe. Day two; we ascend the sweeping ice of the North face, 9 pitches, mostly ice, then bust through the rock band with a pitch of 5.4 and onto the summit. Views of the Columbia Icefields, peaks in every direction. Then a descent of the North Glacier route back to the car.

Mt. Andromeda 3450m. Andromeda Strain V 5.9 A2 W4
3 days $2700 (1:1only)
The most popular of the hard routes in the Rockies. Located in the obvious gash on the NE face, this route is visible from the highway and beckons to every alpinist who passes. Interesting mixed climbing, ice, rock- The A-strain has it all and requires competence in all climbing disciplines. One approach day to a bivy under the route, one day to complete the route, one day back to civilization.

Mt. Deltaform 3424m. SuperColoir IV 5.8 75 degrees
3 days $2700 (1:1only)
A striking coloir splits the imposing North Face, pitch after pitch of ever steepening snow and ice takes us to the final exit pitch of 5.8 rock. Day one: A short hike to a sweet bivy at Eiffel Lake below the route. Day Two: One darn early start to maximize daylight and conditions, we need to be in good shape and move fast, and the terrain allows for that. From the top of the route we have a long non-technical trek back around to our bivy site. After a nights much deserved rest, its a short hike out on the third day.

Mt. Robson 3954m. North Face IV 1000m 55 degree snow and ice
5 days $5400 (1:1) 6,400(2:1)
Robson is the monarch of the Rockies, and any ascent of the mountain is a proud achievement. Tackling the Rockies most classic grand ice face is the dream of many alpinists. Described as a remote and elegant ice face on a big mountain, the North Face offers pitch after pitch of 50 degree ice and snow in a high energy environment. This defines alpine ice face climbing in the Rockies. Day One: Approach Berg Lake. Day Two: Ascend to high camp at the Helmut. Day Three: Climbing Day, to the summit of Robson and then down the Kain Route back to high camp. Day Four: Descent. Day Five: Extra day(weather day) (Heli-access is also available to/from high camp.