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MIXED PROGRAMS:
Mixed climbing is the art of moving over the frozen mediums of Ice and Rock. ‘Classic’ mixed
climbing originated in the mountain environments and is a skill needed on many alpine faces. ‘Modern’ mixed, a fairly
new style of climbing, was developed as a way to climb all the “not quite formed” ice routes. Modern mixed takes
classic mixed terrain, steepens the angle, transfers it to a cragging area, and is often protected by bolts. In
some aspects, it is the “sport climbing” version of winter climbing. A modern mixed route will have as much rock
as ice, the rock is climbed by “drytooling”- hooking your ice axes and crampons on rock ledges and cracks. Winter
climbers now seek out mixed routes for the visceral positions, increased challenge, and endless variety that they offer.
Mixed climbing has been changing the world of winter climbing. Often their will be as many
climbers on mixed routes as ice routes at the local winter crags. Mixed climbing skills learned at the crags can
also be used in alpine environments on classic mixed terrain. In fact, mixed skills will help improve your Ice
climbing abilities. Mixed experience is a needed asset to the all round climber as well as the winter specialist.
Most importantly it is a whole lot of fun…. Come see why!
We offer single and multipitch mixed climbing routes for those with previous experience. These
are the wildest lines in the world, don’t be surprised to be drytooling out a 10 foot roof 300 feet off the
ground....For those of you wanting to gain experience, or an introduction to this niche, check out our:
Mixed Clinics
Your guide, Rob Owens, has repeated some of the world’s hardest ice and mixed routes
including “The Rocky Mountain Horror Show” M11+. On the Ice Comp. circuit Rob has earned top finishes: 2nd
place(2003), 4th place(2004) Ouray Ice Comp. 1st place Canmore Ice Climbing Festival (2001 ice, 2003 mixed).
In 2004 Rob was the top North American finisher in both Ouray and Canmore amongst the Worlds Best climbers.
Our two day clinics offer lowest ratio(2:1), customized, climbing instruction. Clinics
are based at the famous “mixed crags” throughout the Canadian Rockies. Close to the towns of Banff and Canmore
these venues allow for strong coffee starts, “cold stone cranking” during the day and dark beer with fine
cooked meals at night….classic Canadian Rockies climbing culture. With the small group size we are able to
customize the clinics to your needs, desires, and dreams!
Level 1: Mixed Master’s: Intro to mixed climbing
Ideal for those looking to try out his exciting new sport and expand their climbing
skills. With some basic mixed climbing instruction you will greatly increase what is possible at the crag
or in the mountains.
This course will take you through the basics of ‘classic mixed’ and into the world
of ‘modern mixed’ climbing. You will scrape, smear, swing, dangle, dry tool….all with the grace
of a ballet dancer!
Fun will be had!
Dates: 2 day clinic now offered every weekend November to April
Level 2: Mixed Monster’s: Taking it to another level
If you’ve already been introduced to mixed climbing and want to bump up your skills and
performance then this is the course for you. After ensuring you have a solid foundation, we will explore
the specialty techniques of modern mixed climber: figure 4’s, leashless tools, heal spurs, verglass, and
‘alpine’ mixed techniques. Our goal is to have you moving confidently and efficiently on the sickest terrain.
Do expect to get pumped!!
A perfect follow up to the Intro course.
Dates: 2 day clinic now offered every weekend November to April
Sign up now by contacting info@rockies-ice.com
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